Welcome to Bratislava, the capital and largest city of Slovakia. It spreads across both banks of the Danube at the foot of the Little Carpathians, right where Slovakia meets Austria and Hungary, which makes it the only national capital bordering two other sovereign states. Vienna is just 50 kilometres away, so the two are the closest pair of capitals in Europe. For centuries this was the coronation city of the Kingdom of Hungary, where eleven Hungarian kings and eight queens were crowned. Let's begin high above the river.
Bratislava Castle
Photo: C.Stadler/Bwag · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsRising on a rocky hill directly above the Danube is Bratislava Castle, a massive rectangular building with a tower at each corner. For centuries its size and position have made it the dominant feature of the city, and from up here you can see across Bratislava into Austria and, on a clear day, parts of Hungary. The tallest of the four is the Crown Tower, 47 metres high and dating from the 13th century, which for about 200 years kept the crown jewels of Hungary. In the courtyard, a well plunges 80 metres deep.
St. Martin's Cathedral
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsJust below the castle stands St Martin's Cathedral, the largest and one of the oldest churches in Bratislava. For centuries it was the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary. Its 85-metre tower and spire dominate the Old Town skyline, and the tower was built right into the town's defensive walls, effectively forming part of the fortifications. Nearby, a small monument recalls the synagogue that stood next door for centuries until it was demolished around 1970 to make way for a new bridge.
Most SNP
Photo: Pudelek (Marcin Szala) · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia CommonsAhead of you, the Most SNP stretches across the Danube, the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising. Most people simply call it the UFO Bridge. It is the world's longest bridge with one pylon and one cable-stayed plane, with a main span of 303 metres. Cars cross on the upper level, while cyclists and pedestrians use the level below.
Michael's Gate
Photo: Dennis G. Jarvis · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia CommonsWalk under Michael's Gate, the only city gate that survives from Bratislava's medieval fortifications. In the Middle Ages, the town could be entered and left only through four heavily fortified gates, and this was the northern one. Built around 1300, it took its present Baroque shape in 1758, when the statue of Saint Michael and the Dragon was placed on top. Look up to find him, and if you like, step inside, where the tower houses an exhibition of weapons from the city museum.
Primate's Palace
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsBefore you is the Primate's Palace, an elegant neoclassical building raised between 1778 and 1781 for the Archbishop of Esztergom, Primate of the Kingdom of Hungary. Its most famous room is the Hall of Mirrors. There, in 1805, after the Battle of Austerlitz, the Peace of Pressburg was signed, ending the War of the Third Coalition. One consequence was remarkable: the Holy Roman Empire was dissolved. Today the palace serves as the seat of the Mayor of Bratislava.
Devín Castle
Photo: CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia CommonsOn a 212-metre cliff where the Morava flows into the Danube stands Devín Castle. People have lived on this spot since the Neolithic Age, and Celts and Romans fortified it in turn, drawn by its command over the river trade route and a branch of the Amber Road. Until 1989 the Iron Curtain ran right in front of the castle, and the land around it was a restricted military zone of watchtowers and barbed wire. Look for the tiny Maiden Tower, the most photographed part of the castle.
Blue Church
Photo: Thomas Ledl · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsHere is a little gem: the Church of St. Elizabeth, known to everyone as the Blue Church. Its facade, mosaics, majolica and glazed roof are all shades of blue, in the Hungarian Art Nouveau style. It was built between 1908 and 1913 to plans by Ödön Lechner and first served as the chapel of the neighbouring grammar school. It is dedicated to Elisabeth of Hungary, who grew up in Bratislava Castle. Notice the oval ground plan and the slender round tower, 36.8 metres high.