Welcome to Seoul, the capital of South Korea and the largest city in the whole of Korea, set among mountains and hills with Bukhansan on its northern edge. Its history goes back to 18 BC, when it was founded by the people of Baekje, one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. Under the Joseon dynasty it became the capital, ringed by a fortress wall. The Korean War left the city mostly in ruins, yet it rebuilt and grew at astonishing speed. Today Seoul is a hub of music and entertainment, and the home of K-pop. Let's start our journey at a royal palace.
Gyeongbokgung
Photo: 서울관광 아카이브 · KOGL Type 1 · Wikimedia CommonsPass through the gates of Gyeongbokgung, established in 1395 as the first royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. It flourished under Sejong the Great, who led the creation of the Korean script Hangul right here. In 1592, during the Imjin War, the palace burned to the ground and was not restored until the late 19th century. Under Japanese colonial rule almost all of its around 500 structures were sold off, leaving only 40 by 1945, and dozens have since been recreated. Watch for the changing of the guard, and note one charming custom: entry is free for visitors wearing hanbok, traditional Korean clothing.
Changdeokgung
Photo: 문화재청 · KOGL Type 1 · Wikimedia CommonsNow to Changdeokgung, founded in 1405 and among the best preserved of all Korean palaces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. Officially it ranked below Gyeongbokgung, yet most kings preferred to live here. After the Imjin War destroyed every palace in the city, Changdeokgung was repaired while Gyeongbokgung was not, so for several centuries this was effectively the main palace of Joseon. Sunjong, the last Korean monarch, made it his official palace. Don't miss the Secret Garden, long beloved by Korea's kings.
N Seoul Tower
High on the summit of Namsan in central Seoul rises the N Seoul Tower, a 236 metre communication and observation tower. It was the nation's first tower serving multiple television and radio broadcasters, and it has become a landmark and symbol of the city. It goes by many names: officials call it Namsan Seoul Tower, its owner calls it YTN Seoul Tower, and the observation decks are marketed as N Seoul Tower. Locals, though, usually just say Namsan Tower or Seoul Tower.
Bukchon Hanok Village
Photo: Bgag · CC0 · Wikimedia CommonsWander into Bukchon Hanok Village in Jongno District, a residential neighbourhood full of restored traditional Korean houses called hanok. Many date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and were preserved while the rest of Seoul was rapidly rebuilt. The village became hugely popular with visitors in the late 2000s. Here is a remarkable contrast: in 2024 it welcomed 6.4 million visitors, compared with around 6,100 residents. So walk softly and be considerate of the people who live in these homes.
Myeong-dong
Photo: 서울연구데이터서비스 · KOGL Type 1 · Wikimedia CommonsWelcome to Myeong-dong, one of Seoul's main shopping and tourism districts, bustling with shops, crowds and parades. Two historic landmarks stand here: Myeongdong Cathedral and the Myeongdong Theater, and the Nanta performances are popular too. In the Joseon era the area was part of the southern capital, called Myŏngnyebang. During the Japanese colonial period it was renamed after Emperor Meiji and grew into a commercial district. It officially became Myeongdong in 1946, after independence.
Lotte World Tower
Tilt your head back for Lotte World Tower, a 123 storey supertall skyscraper reaching 555 metres, the first building in South Korea to top 100 storeys. When it was completed it was the fifth tallest building in the world, and it opened to the public on 3 April 2017 with a fireworks display. For the brave, there is a Sky Bridge Tour on the roof at 541 metres, almost exactly the height of One World Trade Center in New York.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Photo: Eugene Lim · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia CommonsBefore you curves the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, designed by Zaha Hadid with Samoo in a striking neofuturistic style of powerful, elongated, curving forms. It is the centrepiece of Dongdaemun, Seoul's fashion hub. Inside and around it you will find large exhibition spaces and futuristic shops, and you can even walk across a park on its roofs. Restored parts of the old Seoul fortress sit alongside. The plaza was one of the main reasons Seoul became World Design Capital in 2010, and it was inaugurated in 2014.
Cheonggyecheon
Photo: Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsWe end beside Cheonggyecheon, a stream that flows for 10.9 kilometres through downtown Seoul. After the Korean War, during rapid development, it was covered with concrete and an elevated freeway was built on top. Then, in 2003, the city began removing the expressway and bringing the stream back to life, finishing in 2005. The project first drew heavy criticism, yet since its opening it has become a favourite place for residents and tourists to walk along the water.
Lomakuume
